Performance of Core Spun Yarn: Influence of Core Yarn Material and Fabric Conformability
The effect of core yarn material on the performance of Core Spun Yarn and fabric conformability. Two types of core spun yarn and three types of fabrics were developed using XLA fiber and spandexcore as the core yarn and cotton fiber as the outer fiber, respectively. The effect of core material on the performance of Core Spun Yarn and the conformability of the fabrics was investigated.
The test results show that: the elasticity and initial modulus of elastic fiber affect the elastic recovery of Core-Spun Yarn; the elasticity and initial modulus of yarn are important factors affecting the wrinkle resistance of fabric; the elasticity and boiling water shrinkage of fiber affect the dimensional stability of fabric.
The moisture absorption of the fiber material, the shrinkage of the fabric and its crease recovery in the wet state have an impact on the fabric non-ironability.
XLA fiber corespun yarn fabric has the highest flatness grade, soft handfeel and comparable comfort with cotton fabric.
It is believed that XLA fiber core spun yarn fabric has the best conformability and can be used to develop low-stretch comfort wrinkle-resistant cotton fabrics.
In this paper, XLA fiber (a polyolefin-based elastic fiber) and spandexcore were used as the core yarn of core yarn, and combed cotton fiber was used as the outer wrapping fiber, and two types of Core-Spun Yarn were developed by hollow roller type agglomerated cyclo-spinning spinning method, and three fabrics were woven with these two core yarns and cotton combed yarn as the weft yarn of the fabric respectively to study the effect of core yarn material on The effect of core yarn material on the performance of Core Spun Yarn and its fabric conformability was investigated.
What is fabric conformability?
The conformability of fabric refers to the performance of fabric to maintain its original appearance during use, storage, wearing and washing, which reflects whether the fabric is easy to use and maintain, including wrinkle resistance, non-iron or washability, drapability, rigidity and flexibility, dimensional stability, pilling resistance, etc. Cotton fabric because of good moisture absorption, soft and comfortable, loved by the majority of consumers;.
But the structure of cotton fibers in the non-crystalline area, irregular arrangement of macromolecular chain, intermolecular force is small, when subjected to external forces easily deformed, so cotton fabrics in use, after washing easy to wrinkle deformation, affecting the beauty. In order to improve the conformability of cotton fabrics, the most current application is its anti-wrinkle finishing.
High-grade cotton fabrics by non-iron finishing will affect the fabric’s skin feel and elasticity, and there may be residual harmful chemicals, and safety, ecological textiles is the inevitable trend of future development.
What are the materials of core filament?
XLA fiber is a new type of green, low-carbon, energy-saving and environmentally friendly elastic fiber. The corespun yarn is JC 18.5 tex and the two corespun yarns are JC 18.5 tex (XLA 4.67 tex) corespinning yarn and JC 18.5 tex (Pu 4.44 tex) corespun yarn.
What are the testing instruments for corespun yarn?
SU1510 scanning electron microscope, XL ⁃2 yarn tensiometer, XN ⁃ 1A spandexcore elasticity tester, USTERTESTER 5 dryer, USTER ZWEIGLEHL 400 hairiness tester, MOTTC B1 optical microscope, YG(B)541E intelligent fabric crease elasticity tester, Phab ⁃rOmeter 3 type fabric hand feeling evaluation system tester, YG701E⁃Ⅲ type automatic fabric shrinkage tester, YG811 type fabric dynamic draping style instrument, YG601N⁃Ⅱ type computerized fabric moisture permeability meter, YG 461E⁃Ⅲ type automatic air permeability meter.
How is the fabric produced?
Three kinds of fabrics were woven, the fabric organization was two up two down left twill, the warp density was 354 roots/10 cm, the weft density was 275 roots/10 cm. the warp and weft yarn of fabric 1 was JC 18. 5 tex yarn, the fabric thickness was 0. 40 mm, the mass per unit area was 132 g/m2.
The warp yarn of fabric 2 is JC 18. 5 tex, the weft yarn is JC 18. 5 tex (XLA4. 67 tex) core spinning, the fabric thickness is 0. 44 mm, and the mass per unit area is 134 g/m2. The warp yarn of fabric 3 is JC 18. 5 tex, the weft yarn is JC 18. 5 tex (Pu 4. 44 tex) core spinning, and the fabric thickness is 0. 46 mm. spinning, fabric thickness 0. 46 mm, mass per unit area 138 g/m2.
Specific weaving and finishing process: sizing (YS305 sizing machine) → warping (GA193⁃300 fully automatic single yarn warping machine) → drawing-in (manually) → weaving (SGA598 fully automatic rapier weaving machine) → desizing → rolling (YMPO⁃01A vertical pneumatic electric mini-roller) → ironing.
What are the differences between the properties of elastic fiber and yarn?
XLA fiber cross-section is round, no skin core or other composite structure, the surface is uneven; spandexcore is a compound filament formed by two single fibers, cross-section is nearly round, the surface is smoother.
XLA fiber linear density 4. 67 tex, elongation at break 681. 57%, breaking strength 5. 6 cN/tex, initial modulus 0. 6 c N/tex. The spandexcore has a linear density of 4. 44 tex, an elongation at break of 783. 02%, a breaking strength of 13. 3 cN/tex, and an initial modulus of 0. 4 cN/tex. It can be seen that the initial modulus of XLA fiber is higher than that of spandexcore, but the breaking strength is lower, indicating that XLA fiber can produce a larger elongation at low stress.
Table 1 shows the tensile elasticity of elastic fibers and yarns. Table 1 shows that the sharp elastic deformation and elastic recovery of XLA fiber are slightly smaller than those of spandexcore at the same constant elongation. Comparing the elastic recovery rates of the three yarns, JC 18. 5 tex yarn was the smallest and XLA Core-Spun Yarn was larger than spandexcore Core Spun Yarn.
Table 2 shows the yarn properties. The data in Table 2 show that the addition of core yarn can significantly improve the yarn dryness and hairiness compared with JC 18.5 tex yarn. hairiness, and high initial modulus.
What effect does the core material have on the wrinkle resistance of the fabric?
The degree of recovery of a fabric from repeated rubbing by external forces during wearing and washing is called crease recovery.
Fabric 2, i.e. weft direction using JC 18. 5 tex (XLA 4. 67 tex) Core-Spun Yarn fabric total crease recovery angle is the largest, fabric 1 is the smallest. The initial modulus refers to the slope value of the initial part of the tensile curve of the specimen, its value reflects the difficulty of fiber deformation under low load, the initial modulus value is high, indicating that the fiber is difficult to deform under small load, and the fabric has good stiffness.
The addition of elastic fiber to pure cotton yarn improves the elasticity recovery, which in turn improves the wrinkle resistance of the fabric.
The above analysis shows that the initial modulus of XLA fiber Core-Spun Yarn is larger than that of spandexcore Core-Spun Yarn and the elastic recovery is high. The uneven surface of XLA fiber increases the friction between it and cotton fiber, so the total crease recovery angle of fabric 2 is the largest.
In summary, it can be seen that the elasticity and initial modulus of the yarn are the most important factors affecting the wrinkle resistance of the fabric.
What is the effect of core yarn material on the dimensional stability of the fabric?
The dimensional stability of the fabric refers to the performance of the fabric in terms of dimensional change under the conditions of heat, moisture or washing. Test results show that: fabric 1 warp wash size change rate -2. 15%, weft wash size change rate -1. 79%; fabric 2 warp wash size change rate -1. 07%, weft wash size change rate -0. 13%; fabric 3 warp wash size change rate -2. 39%, weft wash size change rate -8. 33%.
Since JC 18.5 tex yarn was used in the warp direction of the fabric, the difference in the washed dimensional change in the warp direction was not significant.
The weft direction of fabric 3 has the highest washed dimensional change rate, which is because the elasticity and elastic recovery of spandexcore is the best, the retraction of spandexcore core spun yarn is large, and at the same time, the fabric is under large tension of fiber and yarn during processing, and when the fabric is soaked in water and under tension-free condition, the stress relaxation makes the shrinkage of the fabric increase obviously; XLA The elastic recovery ability of the fiber is smaller than spandexcore, and the production process will not produce excessive retraction force and residual shrinkage, so its fabric shrinkage rate is low.
The boiling water shrinkage of XLA fiber and spandexcore were measured to be 8. 3% and 11. 5%, respectively. The boiling water shrinkage of the fiber affects the dimensional stability of the fabric, and when the boiling water shrinkage is high, the fabric will shrink in a hot and humid environment. Therefore, the warp and weft shrinkage of fabric 2 is the smallest. In summary, the elasticity of fiber and boiling water shrinkage rate affect the dimensional stability of the fabric.
What effect does the core material have on the non-ironing properties of the fabric?
Iron-free refers to the degree of flatness of the fabric after washing and drying without ironing, which reflects the flatness of the fabric during use and can measure the washability of the garment. The index of fabric non-ironing is the flatness, Figure 4 shows the flatness grade test results of three kinds of fabrics.
The flatness grades of fabric 1, fabric 2 and fabric 3 are 1, 2.5 and 1.5 respectively. Clothes made of fabrics with low crease recovery are prone to wrinkling during washing or wearing, which affects the appearance and flatness of the clothes. In general, the lower the moisture recovery rate of the fiber, the better the wrinkle recovery of the fabric in the wet state, and the better the non-ironing property.
The moisture recovery rates of cotton fiber, XLA fiber and spandexcore are 8. 50%, 0. 76% and 2. 28%, respectively. From the above analysis of the shrinkage of the fabric, it is clear that the shrinkage of fabric 2 is the smallest. Therefore, fabric 2 has the highest flatness grade and the best non-iron property.
In summary, it can be seen that the non-ironing property of the fabric is closely related to the moisture return rate of the fiber material, the crease recovery of the fabric in the wet state and the shrinkage rate of the fabric.
What is the effect of core filament material on fabric drape and style?
The stiffness and drapability of the fabric indirectly reflect the softness of the fabric, the higher the stiffness, the better the conformability of the fabric. The smaller the drape coefficient, the better the drape of the fabric.
The drapability of fabric 2 is better than fabric 3. The higher the value of the fabric windage index, the better the performance in a certain area. The data show that the addition of elastane can change the stiffness of the fabric and fabric 2 has a softer feel.
What effect does the core material have on the comfort of the fabric?
The comfort of fabrics is reflected in contact comfort, temperature comfort and moisture comfort, etc. The main evaluation indexes are moisture permeability and air permeability. The test results show that the moisture permeability of fabric 1, fabric 2 and fabric 3 are 6,432.5 g/(m2-d), 6,785.6 g/(m2-d) and 5,749.9 g/(m2-d) respectively; the air permeability of fabric 1, fabric 2 and fabric 3 are 701.1 mm/s, 600.2 mm/s and 145.5 mm/s respectively.
It can be seen that the moisture permeability of fabric 2 is better and comparable to that of fabric1.
Fiber fineness affects the pile density of yarn, coarse fineness and low pile density increase the air permeability of fabric. xla fiber is monofilament and has a greater linear density than spandexcore, so the air permeability of fabric 2 is significantly higher than that of fabric 3.